NOSTALGIC FUTURISM
Remembering Tomorrow at Iseder SS ‘25
Pictured [Left to Right]: Kinai, Noai, Lati, Riley
Words by Danielle Gadus
Images by Kaden Bard Dawson
9.18.24
Images by Kaden Bard Dawson
9.18.24
It was a friends and family affair at Iseder’s full womenswear collection debut for the Spring/Summer ‘25 showcase. That is, if your family is full of hundreds of multi hyphenate creative swamp goths.
This collection highlighted an evolution for the NYC native duo, who stepped towards a more formal avant garde design style and away from the scrappy-sleazy-sexy designs from their past. The crowd of fans, friends, and creatives at large were excited to see them solidify and embody their voice and own set of design language through this collection.
Left to Right: Marianna, Zoe, Keeley, Gianna, Krysta, Ella, Amos Jin, Kinai, Noia, Mya
Taylor-Paige Garvin and Sharon Mishiev were described as people who prioritize surrounding themselves with fellow native New Yorkers and genuine, cool people. For some, this brand is “all about the vibes.” For others, it’s a manifestation of current youth culture in the city. The sense of community was palpable.
Before the show began - a scuffling pack of vampy 20 somethings slowly made their way to find their seats at the 55 Water St. location. The sound of extra long pants dragging on the concrete accompanied a faint scent of skunky musk that filled the vast space. The location - perched within the towering skyscrapers of FiDi and nestled against the FDR / East River - created a legendary day to night location with buzzing cars and glimmering water as a backdrop.
The collection was a monochromatic exploration that led to a deeper, more intricate attention to details of the silhouettes, textures and textiles employed in the garments and accessories. A blend of yin and yang. Polarities in unison. The show was paced from white to black in a gradient rhythm - with the cuts of the looks also leaning into this duality embracing both edgy, sharp lines and flowing, graceful shapes.
Left to Right: Dylan, Ruby
ESP scored the collection filling the air with esoteric bangers - their own music. The musical duo, also based in New York, consists of Donovan William Lally (Ultra Pure Whip) and Zephyr Maliki (Zephyr) releasing music with YEAR0001. In the time since their debut, self-released album in 2020, they’ve solidified their voice in the scene with their dreamy-electro landscapes. A perfect sonic pairing to the collection that generates both yearning for an indie nostalgia and desire for a cutting edge futuro fantasy.
The makeup further reinforced a play of dualities as Robin Straight led the team of MUAs, whose design sought to evoke grungy, bruise-like qualities as well as an air-brushed auric effect, mimicking that of a halo. Viviane Lee Hsu aimed to both follow and contrast the gradient monotones of the collection. Black claws with edgy, metallic embellishments; a layered, three-in-one nail set; matte black with squared tips; and a gradient wood grain were some of the key nail looks. Contrasting rat tailed bobs, oversized donut bun updos and long straight hair, Elspeth Youn transformed the models into a cast of Iseder characters.
The show demonstrated a myriad of styles and ideas: from an avant garde fur headpiece, to stand out evening dresses to studded leggings paired with platform heels. At a height of cyclical styles being conceived and re-conceived from the early aughts until today at a dizzying pace - we’re reminded that nothing is forever. Images of the show would have fit perfectly in with my tumblr moodboard filled with photos of charcoal ice cream, girls with thigh gaps, aesthetic oil spill photos and Kylie Jenner with blue hair. The images also would be in bounds if situated in a high tech space craft leading us to the utopia of tomorrow.
Pictured: Ursula
The show title ‘Bridging Eras’ encapsulates this mode of simultaneously looking through a romanticized lens of yesterday and an imagined idea of the future, while staying rooted in our present perspective today. A space where both aesthetics of the likes of Sky Ferreira circa 2012 and 2hollis circa 2024 are given reference and breadth. A remix to Kesha’s hit Tik-Tok, released in 2010, followed by techno beats that sounded like they came from the deep-space future sent the girls into a frenzy at the afterparty on Chrystie St in the Lower East Side.
Left to Right: Oksana, Keeley, Alexa
While there were clear references to hot looks from an era of the designers’ youth and an intention of evolving towards the future, (Sharon was recently accepted to Central Saint Martins and Taylor will be visiting him in London to continue their design work) some of the attendees were determined to claim Iseder as an authentic underground design team. A curious take, as the exhibition took place in the sky. How long can something remain underground before the word gets out and the party gets busted? Until the ‘undiscovered’ is catapulted into the stratosphere of legends? Until anti-fashion is subsumed into fashion? An afterparty at an alternate location perhaps?
The trajectory of the two young designers is yet to be determined, but is certainly promising. We’ll all be here eagerly waiting to be fed.
