“It Girls” have existed long before their modern title, though the term has recently blown up all over social media. Aubrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy, Bob Mackie and Cher, Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, John Galliano and Foxy Brown, what’s an artist without their “It Girl”? These are just a few pairs of designers with long-term muses, but how does one classify an “It Girl”? How have “It Girls” evolved? And are “It Girls” on the decline?




What is an “It Girl”?

A muse is often a source of inspiration, typically for an artist, writer, or designer. Many designers look to their muses as the ultimate source of inspiration, going as far as influencing their whole careers or trajectories because of their muse. An “It Girl” utilizes a similar concept but delves more into a social aspect and less towards a specific career-oriented connotation. However, they can also become “It Girls” through their own careers. Words like magnetic, social, influence, and popular come up with “It Girls.”

Vogue did an essay on “It Girls” last year, and it brings up the excellent point that although “It Girls” tend to be conventionally attractive, they also break the mold from a certain homogeneity. The media tends to explode with her spike in attention (think Marylin Monroe or a more recent example of Brittney Spears), and she eventually paves the way for a new form of homogeneity.

How Have “It Girls” influenced fashion and culture?
“It Girls” have long influenced many industries and can often delve into fashion, music, art, and culture themselves or play some part in it (which is why many socialites are dubbed as “It Girls”).



The Substack Mixed Feelings discusses the history of the word well, which originated in early Hollywood and was popularized by the 1927 film It, starring the actress Clara Bow. The movie’s success led the media to call Bow “the It Girl,” a phrase originally coined by the English writer Elinor Glynwith. The use of the term continued through the rise of Hollywood starlets and their relation to other pillars of culture, like Bianca Jagger with Andy Warhol. Each decade seemed to have its own “It Girls” of the era. Still, the mainstream popularity of “It Girls” didn’t come until the late 80s and early 90s with the rise of supermodels and the more regular use of technology to spread information.

“It Girls” often set the tone for what was deemed “cool” or “aspirational” at the time, which led to many of the cultural nuances that existed back in the day. Though “It Girls” came in all shapes and sizes, the ones that were publicized the most were rich, white, and thin. “It Girls” were more strongly recognized and ridiculed back when the primary form of media was in print, with magazines and newspapers.

How Have “It Girls” evolved?
The basics of the “It Girl” title have remained the same, as we’ve seen with recent “It Girls” like model Gigi Hadid. But internet culture has made “It Girls” reach a whole new level of status that has been previously unreached. There’s not just one “It Girl” of the time, like Kate Moss in the 90s, because there’s not one woman who truly holds influence over all others. Having a wide variety of “It Girls” reflects the current socio-political climate, showcasing a more inclusive environment allowing women of all sizes, ethnicities, ages, and backgrounds to influence the broader culture and trend cycles.


Musicians have begun to hold this title more in parallel with big career moments, such as Charlie XCX’s Brat Summer reaching a peak this past year, Megan Thee Stallion’s MEGAN albums, and Sabrina Carpenter’s album Short n’ Sweet. The ability to interact more than ever allows for a more parasocial relationship that makes people feel closer to the “It Girl” and further builds up their “It Girl” status. The things that contribute to their “It Girl” status become microtrends and, for the time being, are the next “It” thing. Take Sabrina Carpenter’s signature chunky boots, Megan Thee Stallion’s workout routines, or Charli’s Brat green hue.

Not only has social media allowed “It Girls” to reach an entirely new level of visibility and accessibility previously unreachable, but now, anyone can become an “It Girl” with a camera and a social media account. However, this doesn’t come without some drawbacks. The compounding number of people online creating content and engaging with others online in a new way has resulted in an “It Girl” epidemic.

If everyone classifies as an “It Girl”, can anyone really truly have influence? 


Are “It Girls” on their way out?

The Cut published an article about “It Girl” inflation last year, reinforcing the idea that the “It Girl” could be on their way out. The article discusses the explosive nature of the internet, which is changing the market for “It,” dramatically increasing both the demand and supply.

Influencers have played a drastic part in this change, making their way into fashion, music, and cultural moments (as “It Girls” tend to do) but with little to no regard for the moments themselves. Phones following models down the runway during a show, camera flashes being on at concerts, and demands for gifts in exchange for posts are commonplace.

As a result, traditional “It Girls” who do not already possess some form of celebrity have become more challenging to find and more complicated to keep in the spotlight. The world is also moving exceptionally fast, with fashion trends lasting several weeks before it's on to the next.

With the waves of micro-influence and short-term “fame” leaving as quickly as they arrive, many are quick to step into the spotlight for their 15 minutes before being lost in the sea of “influence”. The atomization of content has now put favor in the hands of short-form content, making these 15 minutes feel even shorter.


Image Courtesy of Interview Magazine / Chloë Sevigny on Skater Girls, Fashion Week, and the Lawless Nineties

This doesn’t necessarily coincide with increased personal style, as the same few pieces are pushed online thanks to social media platforms like Pinterest and Instagram. Then, everyone wants the same few pieces; once everyone has it, no one wants it. These then go to waste in thrift stores, landfills, and oceans before the cycle starts again.

While the modern “It Girl” hasn’t completely disappeared, her influence, unless pushed by mass media and internet culture to a shocking amount (like a musician or other occasional breakout star), is shrinking to more of a limited sphere of influence. It’s often a solid brand instead of a more human, fluid person. “It Girls” turns to master one group of die-hard followers who can completely commit to wanting her lifestyle instead of mass recognition.

Although “It Girls” are becoming few and far between, the ones that remain are powerful forces to be reckoned with. Many are very outspoken regarding important causes, such as Bella Hadid with the Palestine-Israel conflict. In today’s day and age, “It Girls” stay true to who they are, blending activism, artistry, and authenticity to create their persona.